Wednesday, April 16, 2008

ECCKF Trip: Day Two

Not on the water yet, so if you're reading this for the kayaking angle, you can stop now.

I spent today sightseeing in Charleston. I started the day by heading downtown and strolling along White Point. This is the southernmost tip of Charleston, and features a beautiful view of the bay. Then I strolled and drove through the quiet streets and alleys of the area, enjoying the antebellum architecture of the residential neighborhoods.

I continued by heading over to the historic synagogue. The congregation was founded by Sephardic Jews in the 1700's, and has been in the same spot ever since. The present building dates to 1841. It is not merely a historic place; it is also still an operating congregation.

I showed up at 10 AM, when the tours were supposed to start. I came in right behind an older woman, who seemed a little confused and lost. She turned out to be the tour guide. She explained that this was her first day back and she was still a little jet-lagged from her recent trip to Europe. The other docent pulled me aside and said, in effect, that our guide was a little ditzy, but interesting and fun - but that if I had any questions after the tour I should come see her.

My tour group consisted of me and two women from LA. The guide proceeded to give us a talk that lived up to the "ditzy, but interesting and fun" billing. Our guide was from an old Jewish Charleston family. Her talk was completely non-linear, jumping around from topic to topic, including not only the history of Jewish Charleston but also family stories, reminiscences about the Charleston of her parents' day, some bitterness over the outcome of the Civil War, some rather strange discussions of slavery (well, countries all around the world had slavery back then), discussions of the rice/cotton/indigo economy, her impressions of her recent trip to Eastern Europe, and more. She was a character! I feel like I got a little taste of Charleston culture - beyond just the Jewish part - just from hearing her talk. After she finished, I went into the temple's little museum area where I met up with another group, being given a tour by the more lucid, if not as charming, docent. I got to hear a little about the historical tchotchkes on display - including an amazing story of a silver cup that disappeared when the locals fled from General Sherman's advance, but which was recognized in Connecticut antique shop 100 years later.

By the time I got out of the temple it was lunchtime. I wandered around looking for something quick and easy - preferably with Wifi, since the hotel's connection had been down. I settled on a little coffee bar, where I had a small sandwich & checked email.

Through mid-afternoon I continued to stroll the streets of downtown Charleston. Then I headed out to Fort Moultrie (the more historic sister fort of Ft. Sumter) for some history. The weather was beautiful all day. A nice day overall.

Dinner was a little disappointing - a highly recommended restaurant, but a rather bland dinner.

Tomorrow, the kayaking begins with a day with Nigel Foster!

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